Being back home

Back home, with fresh eyes and some gained perspective. It's comforting to see many things are still the same: Jacaranda trees and cicadas, mielie pap, beautiful beadwork, mom's cooking, fruit warmed by the sun, chappies and crosses, smiling roadside vendors, my love of African skies, ousies catching up gossip on the grass. Wandering like a tourist I notice some new developments too: oyster and champagne saturday mornings, lollipop doggie treats, stone craftsmen, a lovely lady named Busi that sells handmade Shweshwe dolls in support of disabled people (all at Irene Market), potjiekos to go, Pretoria central and the new antique route in my home town, innovative wire art, the lushness from rain, paisley back in fashion. It's good to see you again, South Africa.

Some eco-christmas cheer

This year's Christmas is about making gifts, recycled packaging, minimal impact, happy tummies. I baked a trio of cookies: lemon-zucchini, oatmeal-apricot and chocolate-espresso flavoured ones. I packaged them in second-hand tea tins, a red woven basket, a red and pink vase from Sungardens Hospice. Homemade plum vodka, salt dough men decorations, and old charcoal drawings that I rubber-stamped some simple designs on to use as wrapping paper. All that festive loveliness under the tree, with so little environmental impact :-)

The champagne of teas

The Bengal province of India is a swirl of muscatel flavours, street dog gangs, sharp sickles, DIY movers, tea bushes, 5 rupee chai tea stalls, prayer flag symphonies, colonial steam train remnants, vegetarian validations, snow-capped slopes, delicate tea cups, tin roofs and tree temples, organic estates. I had the pleasure of meeting the 'Rajah of Darjeeling' (in the white apron), a pioneering spirit who heralded the first certified organic tea farm in India, Makaibari Estate. Lady tea pickers (their hands are gentler on the tea bushes) can collect enough shoots in a day to produce 1800 cups of tea. Mmmmmm. Some of the world's first energy bars were a concoction of mixed tea leaves, salt, garlic and dried fish. Not so mmmmm. There I also had the honour of experiencing a home-stay with one of the families at the estate. Lessons in serene simple living, cross-cultural inquisitivness, momo cooking classes, rooster alarm clocks, handmade tea packaging, a volunteering haven, endless reasons to stay.

"Develop an interest in life as you see it; the people, things, literature, music-the world is so rich, simply throbbing with rich treasures, beautiful souls and interesting people. Forget yourself."
— Henry Miller

Sunsets and satsangs

Rishikesh is tucked into a quiet crevice of my heart. Living in an ashram on the banks of the Ganges did more good for me than I initially realised, it offered a quiet refuge from the busy vikram-packed streets that is typical of India. I was told of a beggar who also lived on her banks, who could barely feed himself, but always somehow found food to feed a troop of stray dogs living with him. His shack is nexto a tree-shaded chai stall by Ramjhula (best ginger lemon tea ever), and there I gave him bags of dog food and money that he put to his forehead in appreciation. Hearing of individuals like that gives me hope in the goodess of human beings. Other moments of beauty and stillness cropped up here and there and I documented where I could. Holy Ganga worship, sunset contemplations, handpainted adverts, bathing pilgrims, lessons from a Swami, morning mantras and offerings, ashram living, incense alleys, bindi blessings, pans of spices, ayurvedic massages, Shiva's grace, yoga postures, strong currents for one's sins, Himalayan bliss.

Mcleod Ganj

More of India, since it fills my head everyday. Mcleod Ganj, His Holiness the Dalai Lama's place of residence. Prayer flags on every tree, mouth-watering momos (ie dumplings), delicate butter sculptures (to highlight our impermanence), lessons in selflessness, smiling monks (both adult and mini ones), Himalayan views, friendly dogs, eternal flames of hope, singing meditation bowls, monk-run hotels, exiled souls, quiet forests, inspiring volunteers. So much to learn from this tiny town with so many displaced Tibetans.

I learnt that their Panchen Lama (the second most important Lama in the after HH) was abducted by the Chinese when he was 6 years old, he hasn't been seen since 14 May 1995. Oh, and the Chinese installed their own approved Lama in his place. How China's 'liberation' over 60 years ago has led to the exploitation of Tibet's natural resources (an estimated 14 billion tons of oil, 1500 billion cubic m of natural gas, and one of the world's largest deposits of uranium and chromite), massive deforestation of the 'roof of the world', the killing of over 1 million Tibetans, the destruction of over 6000 monasteries, religious freedom is not allowed and portraits of the Dalai Lama are banned, their native language is being phased out of schools, women are forcibly sterilised, the entire country is militarized with 1 soldier per 20 Tibetans, as opposed to 1 per 2000 Chinese, movement of Tibetans is strictly controlled thus dissolving their nomadic way of life as they are forced to stay in concentration-type housing, how so many brave the harsh month-long trek across the Himalayas to India, while they leave their home that is used as a toxic dumping ground. Something to consider when we read about the latest monk who has self-immolated himself out of pure desperation, or when we blindly purchase 'Made in China' items, which could be made by politically detained monks (some adhesives are toxic to humans, so Tibetans are used for this). This one learns from coming here, LHA is a wonderful volunteer initiative where one can help, even if its coming in for an hour and speaking with the monks to improve their english. And hear all their stories firsthand. So much good is being done and so many good people congregate here, like that tattooed teddy bear who runs an eco-educational art initiative for children, but so much more needs to be done. Even if it involves a small action of checking the label to see where it was made, and reconsider. Besides, local is always more lekker.

What I learnt from the camino

As I go through all my travel photographs, some images crop up to remind me about journeys and their lessons..

The fire within

"We travel, some of us forever, to seek other states, other lives, other souls."
Anais Nin

I am back in South Africa, after my travelling adventures in Europe and India. Home with an empty chest, and a head filled with Indian daydreams. Her effect on me has been permanent, this place of growth, death, love, light and warmth. So much warmth from the lotus land. Puja nights by the Ganges, Buddhist lessons in patience, dusty landscapes, my heart's intent to return, vibrant night markets, new mantras to abide to, butter lamps, the silent enlightened, contented smiles from strangers, incense blessings, unfolding petals, palace passages, the blaze of sunset and saris to remember forever. All this to set a soul on fire.

Thank you India

I left Himachal Pradesh with a heavy heart. I've had to say goodbye so many times on this journey of mine, this time was particularly hard, having met such pure hearts, mine ached to leave them. But my pre-booked train ticket had other plans for me (tickets are hard to come by, so booking in advance is the only way to get them- the slow journey across the Indian countryside was worth it though). So my next adventures to Agra, Sikkim, Darjeeling and Kolkata revealed humorous Indian 'airconditioners', giant gold statues, wish lakes, the best pistachio and banana lassi, sandstone forts, rice fields, decorated horses, devastating poverty like I have never seen before, the palace of love,  humble living, toll barrier-breaking rickshaw drivers, train fast-food, gompas, bangles in every colour, Moghul design pretties, tea time and the intricate process of how each cup is made, reminders of life and love, mandalas, cupboard-carrying men, Sikh beards, the biggest spring rolls to date, clay take-away chai cups. I can't get enough of this amazing, devastating, beautiful, sad, inspiring, motivating, trying, incredible, emotional, earthly, heavenly country. Here, the clouds are in my head.